Meet Todra Payne of Makeup Theory

Who’s Profiling: Todra Payne, Pennsylvania
Blog: www.makeuptheory.blogspot.com

When did you go natural and why?
I went natural about fifteen years ago. At the time I did it because I wanted locs. I’ve since cut off my locs. But as I’ve become more natural in other areas of my life, particularly with eating organic foods, keeping my hair natural just makes sense. I also teach workshops on makeup and beauty – much of what I use and talk about in my workshops are healthy and organic products. I suppose going natural with my hair was the first step towards a more aware and healthy lifestyle, but I didn’t realize it at the time.

What have you loved most about being natural?
Honestly, I love standing out – not looking like the crowd. I don’t understand why such a large percentage of African-American women have relaxers and fake hair. I’m not saying it’s wrong to have a certain style. But I wonder why it is such a disproportionate number of women who look like that instead of more natural. I think advertising and music videos are influencing our choices. I refuse to have my style dictated by ad agencies and the media’s view of what’s attractive or acceptable.

What have you liked least?
It was so much work educating myself on how to take care of my natural hair. I’ve repeatedly cut my hair back to a TWA because initially I couldn’t figure out how to care for it. Most commercial products, even the so-called black hair care products – have incredibly harmful, unhealthy ingredients in them. My hair would look great for a few months and then it would get dry, brittle and break off. I had to rethink how I was taking care of my hair. I had to learn, in some cases, to make my own hair products because I don’t want parabens, mineral oil or carcinogens in my products. But now that I know what I’m doing, I love taking care of my hair and it’s thriving.


What's your advice for people transitioning to natural?
Learn everything you can about taking care of natural hair BEFORE you do your Big Chop. If you don’t know how to take care of your natural hair, the first time it gets dry and looks bad, you’ll run back to the relaxer. Most commercial products designed for relaxed hair aren’t going to nourish natural hair. The other thing to take into consideration is how much you’re affected by other people’s opinions and comments. The reality is people may say ignorant things about YOUR hair and YOUR decisions because they are buying into the whole idea that only European hair is attractive. “Go straighten your hair and cover up your naps!” Black men can be your loudest critic. If you’re someone who’s easily hurt, going natural may be a harder journey for you.

What is your best advice for people who are trying to stay natural?
Get around other women who are sporting natural. If you’re always looking at images of black pop stars in blond lace front wigs, you are going to feel all alone out there with your little curls. But honestly, you’re not. Find images of beautiful naturals like Esparanza Spalding, Sophie Okonedo and YaYa to inspire you. I have a photo collection of natural haired models and celebs that remind me that there’s more than one definition of beauty.

What is your favorite natural hair care website or forum?
I have to say almost everything I learned was from MotownGirl. I found her by accident and was simply glued to the computer screen when I read how she takes care of her natural hair. I’ve made most of her hair care recipes. A whole new world opened up for me.

I also love my community of sistas who are on Fotki. It’s not a natural hair site, but there’s an amazing group of ladies on there who share product advice, hair routines and encouragement. I’ve gained so much from them.

What are your top three products and why?
Body art quality henna from Mehandi.com – because I love coloring my curls, but commercial dyes destroy my hair. Pure henna (versus much of the commercial “henna” that is laced with salts and chemicals) actually improves the quality of my hair while giving me a natural looking red tint.

Caramel Treatment recipe from MotownGirl’s website – it’s a deep conditioner I make out of organic bananas, raw honey, olive oil and a few other natural ingredients that really condition my hair and leave it incredibly soft.

Flax seed gel – I make a gel by boiling flax seeds in hot water and I use this for a soft hold twist out in the summer. My hair looks good and there’s no “crunch factor” like with store-bought gels.